- 1 Basic Tools Required
- 2 Tool Descriptions and Notes
- 3 Optional tools
- 4 Forum Discussions
Basic Tools Required
Tools needed for assembly will be included w/ a kit. Tools which are currently included:
- Hex keys (Allen wrenches)
- 1.5mm Hex key --- used for M3 set screws on pulleys
- 2mm Ball End Hex Key
- 2.5mm Ball End Hex Key
- 3mm Ball End Hex key
- 4mm Ball End Hex Key
- 5mm Allen wrench --- used for M6 Socket Head Cap Screws (SHCS)
- single use wrenches
as well as
- blue thread lock
- Sharpie Permanent Marker
Additional Assembly Tools
- Flush cut pliers (or scissors) --- these are used for trimming zip ties --- an alternative is to use a pair of nail clippers --- if curved clippers are used the ends will be rounded and less likely to catch
- Needle nose pliers
- Tape measure or ruler
- Easy-peel masking tape, such as blue painter’s tape (nothing that leaves a residue behind)
- Adjustable wrench
- 5.5mm open-end wrench --- used for M3 hex nuts
- Slip Joint Pliers (a pair was included w/ earlier kits in lieu of the larger wrenches)
- 1/8" hex key for 10-24 BHCS used for 1/2" aluminum spacers used for Z-axis stops --- these have been switched to metric for current production
- 8mm Combo Wrench
- 10mm Assembly Wrench
- 13mm (or 1/2") wrench for M8 hex nuts
Outlines of collet wrenches
Tracing of Makita RT0701/0700 collet wrenches: https://community.carbide3d.com/t/importing-a-file-or-a-backgound-image/27166
- 17mm (same size as the wrench for ER11 nuts such as used by the Nomad 883 machines)
Carbide Compact Router/Makita RT0700/0701
collet wrench/nut sizes:
- 13mm --- note that this must be low profile.
- Bicycle cone wrenches work as well such as the 13mm Park Tool PT-09 Shop Cone Wrench
- Asahi low profile 11/13mm wrench
- https://www.mcmaster.com/5742A4/ Tight-Clearance Open-End Wrench with Black Finish, 13 mm Size, 4" Overall Length (sourced from Martin as of mid-2020)
- 22mm --- a stubby wrench is well-suited for this, and handier due to the low torque requirements
Tools needed for a stock ShapeOko 2 kit from Inventables. These tools will also cover most Shapeoko 1 kits.
- 4mm Allen wrench
- 3mm Allen wrench
- 2.5mm Allen wrench
- 2mm Allen wrench
- 1.5mm Allen wrench
- 2 13mm open-end wrenches
- 8mm open-end wrench
- A tool to tighten the M3 brass standoff spacers --- candidates include: 5mm open-end wrench, adjustable crescent wrench, nylon parallel-jaw pliers.
- M5 0.8 pitch Tap
- razor blade (used for cutting and stripping wires, the tools listed below are preferable)
- small flat-bladed screwdriver
- very small Phillips (or flat-bladed) screwdriver
- #2 Philips or large flat-bladed screwdriver
The ER-11 collets and spindle bundled with the Nomad require:
- 17mm open-end wrench --- specialty ER-11 collet wrenches such as: https://www.maritool.com/Tool-Holders-Spare-Parts-Wrenches/c23_30_53/p1020/ER11-Collet-Wrench/product_info.html are available.
- 12mm (early machines accepted 13 mm or 1/2"), possibly needs to be low profile.
- https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-644116-Metric-Polished-Combination/dp/B002INOO68 
- https://www.mcmaster.com/5742A3/ --- note that these are currently: http://productcatalog.martinsprocket.com/views/productinfo.aspx?Part_Number=612MM&Website_CategoryName=HandTools&Website_Code=HT2
Tool Descriptions and Notes
Note: Ball-end hex wrenches are much easier to use when assembling things at odd angles in tight spaces.
Note: 1/2" and 5/16" wrenches (pictured) respectively are w/in tolerance and may be used instead.
|Tap only needed if Makerslide is not pre-tapped|
|Tools needed for wiring electronics|
|Soldering iron only needed if assembling a board from components or if using a wiring option which requires soldering.|
- https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-taps/=160sq9g --- spiral/gun taps are useful in a through hole, pushing chips out the far end
- M3 tap (for Shapeoko 3 if tapping rails to mount drag chains)
- M6 tap (for Shapeoko 3): http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-9-Drill-and-6-mm-x-1-0-NC-Tap-Set-DWA1420/204787310
- Countersink, Filing tools or Dremel with milling bit: Some Shapeokos have mounting plates w/ coatings which may need to be removed from the holes for the bolts to fit. Some manufacturing process may leave small nubs around all holes which should be filed off. A single twist of a countersink will remove the burr, which is much faster than a file.
- Tapered Reamer --- Some upgrades may require enlarging the holes in the plates --- a tapered reamer is a useful tool for doing so. This was more so the case for the ShapeOko 1's plates which had round holes.
- Machinist's (or other high-precision) square --- a good quality drafting triangle is amazingly precise for the price and a useful tool for checking that things are square, perpendicular and plumb.
- Dial Indicator is useful for evaluating accuracy --- https://community.carbide3d.com/t/dial-indicator-purchase-help/25636
- Caliper and/or micrometer
- True Power 6"(150mm) Stainless Steel Digital Vernier Caliper with Inch Fractions/Decimal SAE/Metric Unit Display & Conversion #446
- http://wixey.com/calipers/index.html 
- iGaging IP54 Electronic Digital Caliper 0-6" Display Inch/Metric/Fractions Stainless Steel Body
- heat source (heat gun or hair blow-dryer) if using heat shrink tubing.
||Note: The Loctite might not be necessary, but is handy to have around. As the machine vibrates (and it will), your bolted connections have the potential of loosening. If this occurs, one option is to use a dab of thread locker to prevent the guilty bolt from coming loose again. It's not necessary to do this to any of the bolts unless they begin to loosen. Alternately, one could instead use lock washers.
Carbide 3D uses Loctite 222 when assembling machines.
Caution on use in plastics: https://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=8878&p=67587#p67587
Technique for molding foam: http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=4770.0
http://www.garymkatz.com/ChartsDrawings/tool_tote.html --- utilitarian toolbox which fits w/in a milk crate. Includes SketchUp plan.
- Calipers --- Note the "10:1 rule" a guideline in metrology. Broadly speaking, your measuring instrument chosen should be accurate (not just discriminate) to 1/10th of the tolerance. So, if you have a feature with a tolerance of 0.010", your measuring instrument should be accurate to no less than 0.001"
- dial indicator w/ magnetic base
- feeler gauge
- thread pitch gauge
- Set up tools
- parallels --- even a couple of offcuts from a length of bar extrusion can be useful for setting up stock so as to allow cutting all the way around it for example.
- 1-2-3 blocks
- permanent marker
- layout fluid such as Dykem
- carbide scribe
- dead blow hammer
- allen keys
- torx keys
- Files --- "inexpensive and are best bang for the buck in finishing" 
- triangle (machinist) scraper 
- crescent wrench
- toe clamp set
- Contour gauge --- well-suited to duplicating shapes for replicating parts. Designing_for_Fabrication#Duplication_of_arbitrary_shapes
- Crimpers ---
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103683--- suited to small Molex and DuPont connectors.
- CRC Plastic Safe Multi-Purpose Precision Liquid Lubricant, 11 oz Aerosol Can, Amber
- Loupe, linen tester, or comparator --- for examining endmills and machined surfaces --- Bausch & Lomb Watchmaker Loupe, 5x (Amazon) 
- deburring tool (esp. if doing metal) --- http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Deburring-Tool-HDX090/204218603 or https://www.amazon.com/Noga-RB10002-Heavy-Deburring-Replaceable/dp/B006KLGZ1Q 
- countersink (either hand, or in a drill) --- this will allow one to easily add a nice chamfer to smaller pockets.