Difference between revisions of "Assembly step 3"

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'''Y-Axis Idle Mount Plate'''
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These are the instructions for the SO1 and are here for historical reasons only.
 +
 
 +
If you are building an SO2, please see the instructions at http://docs.shapeoko.com/
  
 
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[[File:SM-YA02.png|center|thumb|750px|link=https://github.com/shapeoko/ShapeOko/raw/master/Build_Instructions/individual_pages/Shapeoko_Build_Instructions_Page004.pdf|(click the picture to download the PDF file)]]
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[[File:SM-YA02.png|center|thumb|750px|link=https://github.com/shapeoko/ShapeOko/raw/master/Build_Instructions/individual_pages/Shapeoko_Build_Instructions_Page003.pdf|(click the picture to download the PDF file)]]
 
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----
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==Y-Axis Idle (left carriage) Mount Plate Assembly:==
 +
 +
A pair of assemblies make up the left and right ends of the gantry (see [[Assembly step 8]]). These are (of course) mirror images of each other.
  
 
==Instructions==
 
==Instructions==
'''Y-Axis Idle Plate Assembly:'''
 
 
*Take note of the top hole orientation.
 
*Take note of the top hole orientation.
 
* Looking from the inside of the plate (view shown) the cross mount holes (circled) need to be in the top right of the plate.
 
* Looking from the inside of the plate (view shown) the cross mount holes (circled) need to be in the top right of the plate.
* If you assemble these backwards you'll have to disassemble the plate and flip the wheels around.
+
* If you assemble these backwards you’ll have to disassemble the plate and flip the wheels around.
* It's not the end of the world, but it's tedious and frustrating if you make that mistake.
+
* It’s not the end of the world, but it’s tedious and frustrating if you make that mistake.
* Make sure the smaller end of the eccentric nut (the tapered end) goes into the hole in the plate. If you install the nut backwards you won't be able to adjust the spacing of the V-Wheels.
+
* Make sure the smaller end of the eccentric spacer (the tapered end) goes into the hole in the plate. If you install the spacer backwards you won’t be able to adjust the spacing of the V-wheels.
** If the steel plate has been painted, the tapered end of the eccentric nut may be very difficult to fit into the hole. Remove the paint from the inside of the hole with a drill bit, with the threads of a screw or any other appropriate tool.
+
** If the steel plate has been painted, the tapered end of the eccentric spacer may be very difficult to fit into the hole. Remove the paint from the inside of the hole with an appropriate tool (a drill bit, or the threads of a screw will work).
** The thick sidewall of the eccentric nut should face the other V-wheel, in this way the distance between both wheels is largest, which will help the later assembly onto the Makerslide rail.
+
** The thick sidewall of the eccentric spacer should face the other V-wheel, in this way the distance between both wheels is largest, which will help the later assembly onto the Makerslide rail.
** To avoid later confusion, the thicker side of the eccentric nut can be marked, e.g. with a pen.
+
** To avoid later confusion, the thicker side of the eccentric spacer should be marked, e.g. with a pen.
  
 
==Bill of Materials==
 
==Bill of Materials==
Line 24: Line 29:
 
! scope="col" | Part Num.
 
! scope="col" | Part Num.
 
! scope="col" | Title
 
! scope="col" | Title
 +
! scope="col" | Notes
 
|-
 
|-
|1
+
|5
 
|1
 
|1
 
|SM-S01
 
|SM-S01
 
|Mounting Plate
 
|Mounting Plate
 +
|
 
|----
 
|----
|2
+
|6
|4
+
|SM-H04
+
|M5 Hex Nut
+
|----
+
|4
+
 
|4
 
|4
 
|SM-H08
 
|SM-H08
 
|M5 x 30mm SHCS
 
|M5 x 30mm SHCS
 +
|For the top two wheels on the mounting plate, you can substitute shorter screws (down to M5 x 22mm, maybe 20mm) if you have them.
 
|----
 
|----
|5
+
|7
 
|2
 
|2
 
|MSK01-04
 
|MSK01-04
 
|Eccentric Spacer
 
|Eccentric Spacer
 +
|
 
|----
 
|----
|6
+
|8
 
|12
 
|12
 
|SM-H03
 
|SM-H03
 
|M5 Flat Washer
 
|M5 Flat Washer
 +
|
 
|----
 
|----
|13
+
|9
 +
|4
 +
|SM-H04
 +
|M5 Hex Nut
 +
|
 +
|----
 +
|Assembly 1
 
|4
 
|4
 
|MSK01-05A
 
|MSK01-05A
 
|V Wheel Assembly
 
|V Wheel Assembly
 +
|(from [[Assembly step 1]])
 
|----
 
|----
 
|}
 
|}
Line 59: Line 71:
 
==User Submitted Notes==
 
==User Submitted Notes==
  
The kits sent by Inventables have the end plates painted. You'll need to sand/strip/grind down the paint to get the eccentric nuts (MSK01-04) to fit nicely into the hole. The nuts wont correctly perform their function if the tapered end does not fit nicely into the hole.
+
(This is the section to add your own notes pertaining to this sub-assembly) If you run into a problem or find yourself asking a question, please post the solution here to help the next person who has the same problem/question)
  
I just used a vice to squeeze them in.
+
Before you put any parts on the metal plates, I suggest that you look ahead to [[Assembly_step_14|Step 14 - Electronics]] and find the page that applies to your kit. The remaining holes to which one might use to attach the electronic terminals to your plate(s) may not be suitable for your terminal blocks, necessitating drilling new ones.  It will be easier to work that out before you put parts on the plates.  The directions for the electronics are vague. This is an important matter, since it is best not to repeatedly flex the wires on the motor as the machine runs.  Hence the wires to the motor are routed to terminal strips attached to either the metal plates or the motors themselves and the wires that flex are attached there. If you follow that design, you'll have to figure out how to attach the plastic terminal strip to the metal plate.  (One option is a single terminal strip that is cut into two unequal parts.)
  
For the top two wheels you can substitute M5 x 22mm screws if you have them.
+
The Batch #1 kits sent by Inventables have the end plates painted. You'll need to sand/strip/grind down the paint to get the eccentric spacers (MSK01-04) to fit nicely into the hole. The spacers won't correctly perform their function if the tapered end does not fit nicely into the hole.
  
I have a later Inventables kit with unpainted plates. In each hole of the four holes, there is a burr that prevents the bolt or eccentric nut from fitting in the hole. I used a round file to remove the burr.
+
A vise will allow one to squeeze them in more easily.
  
(This is the section to add your own notes pertaining to this sub-assembly) If you run into a problem or find yourself asking a question, please post the solution here to help the next person who has the same problem/question)
+
Later Inventables kits have unpainted plates. In each of the four holes, there is a bur that prevents the bolt or eccentric spacer from fitting in the hole. A countersink or round file can be used to remove the bur.
  
 
'''Inventables build images'''
 
'''Inventables build images'''
Line 75: Line 87:
 
[[File:Step3_1.png|none|400px|thumb|Top side with bolts and washers]]
 
[[File:Step3_1.png|none|400px|thumb|Top side with bolts and washers]]
  
[[File:Step3_2.png|none|400px|thumb|Eccentric nut placement detail]]
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[[File:Step3_2.png|none|400px|thumb|Eccentric spacer placement detail]]
  
  
  
 
=== Next: [[Assembly step 4]] ===
 
=== Next: [[Assembly step 4]] ===

Latest revision as of 21:47, 19 May 2014

These are the instructions for the SO1 and are here for historical reasons only.

If you are building an SO2, please see the instructions at http://docs.shapeoko.com/


(click the picture to download the PDF file)

Y-Axis Idle (left carriage) Mount Plate Assembly:

A pair of assemblies make up the left and right ends of the gantry (see Assembly step 8). These are (of course) mirror images of each other.

Instructions

  • Take note of the top hole orientation.
  • Looking from the inside of the plate (view shown) the cross mount holes (circled) need to be in the top right of the plate.
  • If you assemble these backwards you’ll have to disassemble the plate and flip the wheels around.
  • It’s not the end of the world, but it’s tedious and frustrating if you make that mistake.
  • Make sure the smaller end of the eccentric spacer (the tapered end) goes into the hole in the plate. If you install the spacer backwards you won’t be able to adjust the spacing of the V-wheels.
    • If the steel plate has been painted, the tapered end of the eccentric spacer may be very difficult to fit into the hole. Remove the paint from the inside of the hole with an appropriate tool (a drill bit, or the threads of a screw will work).
    • The thick sidewall of the eccentric spacer should face the other V-wheel, in this way the distance between both wheels is largest, which will help the later assembly onto the Makerslide rail.
    • To avoid later confusion, the thicker side of the eccentric spacer should be marked, e.g. with a pen.

Bill of Materials

Sortable table
Item Qty. Part Num. Title Notes
5 1 SM-S01 Mounting Plate
6 4 SM-H08 M5 x 30mm SHCS For the top two wheels on the mounting plate, you can substitute shorter screws (down to M5 x 22mm, maybe 20mm) if you have them.
7 2 MSK01-04 Eccentric Spacer
8 12 SM-H03 M5 Flat Washer
9 4 SM-H04 M5 Hex Nut
Assembly 1 4 MSK01-05A V Wheel Assembly (from Assembly step 1)

User Submitted Notes

(This is the section to add your own notes pertaining to this sub-assembly) If you run into a problem or find yourself asking a question, please post the solution here to help the next person who has the same problem/question)

Before you put any parts on the metal plates, I suggest that you look ahead to Step 14 - Electronics and find the page that applies to your kit. The remaining holes to which one might use to attach the electronic terminals to your plate(s) may not be suitable for your terminal blocks, necessitating drilling new ones. It will be easier to work that out before you put parts on the plates. The directions for the electronics are vague. This is an important matter, since it is best not to repeatedly flex the wires on the motor as the machine runs. Hence the wires to the motor are routed to terminal strips attached to either the metal plates or the motors themselves and the wires that flex are attached there. If you follow that design, you'll have to figure out how to attach the plastic terminal strip to the metal plate. (One option is a single terminal strip that is cut into two unequal parts.)

The Batch #1 kits sent by Inventables have the end plates painted. You'll need to sand/strip/grind down the paint to get the eccentric spacers (MSK01-04) to fit nicely into the hole. The spacers won't correctly perform their function if the tapered end does not fit nicely into the hole.

A vise will allow one to squeeze them in more easily.

Later Inventables kits have unpainted plates. In each of the four holes, there is a bur that prevents the bolt or eccentric spacer from fitting in the hole. A countersink or round file can be used to remove the bur.

Inventables build images

Required parts
Top side with bolts and washers
Eccentric spacer placement detail


Next: Assembly step 4