Assembly step 8
Note: if you have not yet tapped your Makerslide, read the section below. Otherwise, skip to the Full Gantry Assembly section below.
Notes about tapping
Tapping means to cut threads on the inside of a hole. There is an entire industry based around this process, and some people take it very seriously. If you look around the internet you can find 1,000s of site with "drill and tap" charts. These charts tell a person how big of a hole is required to be tapped to a certain thread size. There is a great write-up over at Wikipedia describing Tap and Die.
For instance, if you want to have a finished, threaded hole that will accept a standard M5 bolt (.8 pitch), you'll actually need to start with a hole that is only 4mm. This is because as you're cutting the threads into the hole, you'll obviously need material to remove. Always try to start as straight as you can in respect to the hole, or part, respectively.
Some people use a t-handle (which is my preference) something like this from amazon works well. You would also need a tap like this. Other people just put the tap into a hand drill and set the torque to a low setting (something like 10 on a scale 1-21, where 21 is "drill"). Because Makerslide is made from aluminium, which is a "soft" metal, it's fairly easy to tap. But, you'll need a cutting fluid to make it easier - any kind of lubricant, e.g. WD-40, should work well. And others just grab onto the end of the tap with a pair of vice grips or other pliers. This is obviously not the recommended way, but can get you by in a pinch.
When tapping, it's important to not just torque down and twist as hard as you can. Remember, as you're cutting the threads into the hole, the tap is removing material. That material has to go someplace. Ideally, the tap will be trying push the material out of the way either by bringing it back up the hole, or pushing it out the bottom. (If you're doing a through hole you can watch the material start coming out the back of the hole.) But if you encounter resistance, it's probably due to chip buildup along the tap. Slowly reverse the tap until it's out of the hole, clear the chips from the tap, and start again. Depending on how deep the hole is you're tapping, it may take several times of cutting/removing to accomplish your depth.
The PDF instructions do not document the belt anchoring. I've seen it done a few different ways, but I guess it's not critical that it's perfect. Use the insertion nuts and belt anchor parts to mount the belt to your X-axis. You'll have to cut the supplied 940mm belt from Inventables in half and save the rest for the Y-axis! There is some discussion on alternate Belt_Anchors methods.
Here is a video of my X-axis moving during a test of the belt and motor:
An image of the belt anchors and dodgy alignment!
Full Gantry Assembly
- Clean ends of extrusion of any debris.
- Snug bolts on Gantry - Y Idle Mount Plate.
- PRO TIP! - Set eccentric wheels on SM-XZA1 to their widest position before attempting to slide onto makerslide.
- Slide X/Z Assembly onto Makerslide Extrusion
- Snug Bolts on Gantry - Y Motor Mount Plate
- Work your way from each side in a X pattern.
- Align top of extrusion with top of plate.
- Keep square
- Mount Belt (cut the full size belt in half)
Bill of Material
|1||1||Assm 4||Assembly from Step 4|
|2||1||Assm 5||Assembly from Step 5|
|3||1||Assm 7||Assembly from Step 7|
|5||6||SM-H07||M5 x 10mm SHCS|
|6||6||SM-H03||M5 Flat Washer|
User Submitted Notes
(This is the section to add your own notes pertaining to this sub-assembly) If you run into a problem or find yourself asking a question, please post the solution here to help the next person who has the same problem/question)
This image here is missing the belt anchors.