Difference between revisions of "User:Willadams"
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$9 = 0.05
$9 = 0.05
Revision as of 21:51, 28 March 2015
Got tired of seeing my name in red in the recent changes....
I'm a graphic designer who purchased a (used) ShapeOko w/ the intention of automating some woodworking projects and extending my capabilities, esp. hoping to build my own custom brass hardware (and tools) so as to not be limited to what's available for purchase commercially.
I'm an admin on the wiki here, so glad to help out w/ any edits or other issues.
Author of The Rules of ShapeOko.
- 1 ¼″ Drive Shaft Upgrade
- 2 Other Upgrades
- 3 Alternative spindles
- 4 Materials to try
- 5 Hardware to try
- 6 Remaining things to do:
- 7 Diamond, Circle, Square
- 8 Projects
- 9 Notes
- 10 ShapeOko 3
- 11 Speculation
¼″ Drive Shaft Upgrade
- ¼″ pulley
- ¼″ aluminum rod
- ¼″ flanged bearing (use a tapered reamer to enlarge the hole to 13/16″ so that the bearing fits directly, alternately make a bearing plate out of a dimensionally stable material such as hdPe))
- 5mm--¼″ coupler
- 4 7/32″ 1.5″ roll pins and 4 ½″ aluminum spacers (used as motor stand-offs) --- will eventually replace w/ 2″ roll pin
- 4 M3 screws 50mm long
- an assortment of washers
Since implemented double MakerSlide X-Axis, Acme Screw Z-axis and 1m Y upgrades.
- drill new holes to rotate X and Y motors 45 degrees --- DONE!
- drill new holes in X gantry plate to invert belt --- DONE!
- use 10 1″ spacers for carriage--gantry plate --- DONE! but they wouldn't fit over the nifty new bolts, so had to use pan head screws and only used 6 spacers and an assortment of washers
- enlarge motor shaft hole in Y motor plate to accommodate moving pulley to outside --- DONE! Will test and see if it needs a thrust bearing or something.
- use ¼″ music wire and 1 ¼″ steel bar for Y-axis belt anchors --- DONE --- tried single track shelf wall standard instead of music wire --- didn't like it, but spare length of ¼″ aluminum rod worked,
- use short lengths of single track shelf wall standards for X-axis belt anchors --- DONE --- but a hole needs to be enlarged --- DONE
- run wiring --- DONE!
- make a nice enclosure of Lego bricks --- DONE (but see below)
- dust collection --- pick up Dremel EZ Twist Nose Cap and use it to hold a fashioned dust shoe in place --- DONE!
- arrange and secure power cords, secure power strip --- DONE!
- Go tool shopping (DONE!):
- 1/16, 2.5mm and 4mm hex keys (36+67+81 @ True Value, but they're not ball end, so must be replaced)
- fine tip screwdriver ($4.79 @ True Value --- replaced w/ a Starrett 559B)
- 8mm open end wrench ($4.99 @ Sears)
- Make nice fitted tool insert for cigar box --- DESIGNED --- just need to puzzle out extruding and differencing the tools ---Puzzled out --- next CAM and milling --- DONE
- make a nicer fitted insert for the cigar box cut out of basswood and lined w/ flocking and felt --- DONE
Picked up a 1/8" Elaire Corp. collet for a Makita RT070x router --- and a router to match. Working on a mount / dust shoe: http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=3658
Harbor Freight ¼″ trim router
Worked up a mount and dust shoe set-up for a Harbor Freight ¼″ trim router:
3D Printer Extruder
mount an extruder:
- Greg's Wade Reloaded Extruder (from kbot3d) -- http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18379 http://reprap.org/wiki/Wade%27s_Geared_Extruder
- Extruder Extender mounting plate 160mm x 80mm w/ suitably placed holes to match up w/ the Universal Spindle Mount and the extruder back plate
- J-Head Mk V-BV 1.75mm hotend from hotends.com --- https://www.hotends.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=88 --- purchased from Amazon though: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EOESJC4 Notes from a review there:
- Documentation here: http://www.tridprinting.com/Hot-Ends/
- Semitec 104GT-2 Thermistor --- resistance 100k
- 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (4.7k pullup)" ( #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5 )
- NEMA 17 motor w/ a body 40mm or shorter (62 oz 1.7a model?) --- CanaKit Stepper Motor with Cable --- http://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Stepper-Motor-with-Cable/dp/B004G51AZ4/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt
- Step Angle (degrees) :1.8
- 2 Phase
- Rated Voltage : 12V
- Rated Current : 0.33A
- Holding Torque : 2.3kg*cm
- 5mm Diameter Drive Shaft
- Kapton tape --- for wiring up the hot end
- new controller and stepper driver shield and temperature controller --- http://www.panucatt.com/azteeg_X5_mini_reprap_3d_printer_controller_p/ax5mini.htm --- Smoothieware X5 --- older version here: http://reprap.org/wiki/Azteeg_X1
Notes on wiring up a hot-end: http://numbersixreprap.blogspot.ie/2012/07/hot-end.html
- Type 44 Heatsink compound
- alligator clips
- fan(s)? --- a pair of 12V fans?
- high temperature wire?
- printing area --- made up of two parts:
- Thick sheet --- http://reprap.org/wiki/Thick_Sheet
- bed material --- http://reprap.org/wiki/Bed_material#Experiments_with_PLA_on_various_bed_materials
- heated bed?
extruded filament width ~= 0.016" (0.4064mm) -- 0.0175" (0.4445mm)
0.5mm thin wall box (sliced solid) --- wall thickness ~= 0.020" (0.508mm) -- 0.030" (0.762mm) --- the latter number seems to be from mis-aligned layers --- need to tighten up the Z-axis carriage.
- matching connectors for the Azteeg Mini --- DONE
- details of the extruder --- 1.75mm filament, 0.35mm nozzle size
- http://www.makergear.com/pages/superpack-instructions -- BROKEN
- Replacement B3 Innovations Pico Hot End (ordered)
- thermistor --- type 1 100K Epcos NTC Thermistor, beta value 4066
- SM35HT36-1004A 2.7 1.0 2.7 19 1400 4 14 0.18 36 http://www.smartautomation.com.cn/ProductShow.asp?ArticleID=500
- http://www.kysanelectronics.com/Products/Detail.php?recordID=8072 1040220 17HG-B1/14-750C MOTOR,STEP,GEARED,42MM,14:1,750MM WIRE CONNECTOR 164
- additional electronics
- Viki LCD
- Arduino Leonardo as interface between Smoothieboard and Viki LCD
Materials to try
- Wood Composite Filament Laywoo-D3
- Carbon Fiber Sheet
- buy thickest cutting board at Restaurant store --- different colors
- Ipe --- "ipe ... woods of ... similar hardness. With a 1/4 inch carbide bit try 12-18000 rpm and 30-90 ipm. 1/8 inch depth per pass. Leave about .01 inches for a full depth finish pass at the lower ipm range. Depending on the machine you may need faster or slower. You might also need a different step down."
- Observations on using nylon string trimmer line: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=2356#p17092 e.g., http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VPAEL6/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hardware to try
- MakerSlide or 20mm extrusion parallel joiner
- 100 M5 washers
- check inventory of aluminum spacers --- order any which are needed
- 9mm GT2 belting --- for SO 1 and 3
- limit switches
- shielded wire
- Azteeg X5 mini
- 0.5mm hot end
- power supply
Remaining things to do:
- add connectors / wiring to SO1 to match Ordbot
- work out management for Makita power cord and vacuum hose --- build handle arrangement using hanger fixtures and strapping, use pipe or closet rod for handle
- figure out how to invert belts on X-axis --- probably will do this by getting M5 hex bolts and grinding off a side so that they fit snugly against the side of the motor
- make a nicer enclosure of Lego bricks --- need to hide away the wires for the p.s. and fan inside the enclosure DONE --- TODO add transparent bit for power LED, add push through stick for reset button
- replace remaining nylon spacers w/ metal, use 2″ 7/32″ roll pins as stand-offs for Y-axis motor (replacing 1.5″ pins and ½″ aluminum spacers) use 1.5″ pins on spindle mount
- drill new holes in X gantry plate for second pair of bolts
- sound enclosure
- replace standard carriage plate w/ steel version
- replace Z-axis delrin blocks w/ aluminum
- replace zip ties w/ cable drag chain
- drill holes and fasten X-axis MakerSlide together or use Kbot3d's Makerslide Joining Clips
- maybe re-work belt position, maybe use cable clamps instead of zip ties
- drill new holes for side vice, mount new T-nuts (or use threaded inserts) --- DONE
- design nicer / larger / roomier / easier-to-install transparency dust shoe --- DONE
Diamond, Circle, Square
Results (w/ Dremel 4000 and short bit)
- Diamond 1.278, 1.273, 1.277, 1.270 avg. 1.2745 (==1.39194 less runout) ==2.98298mm
- Circle 1.841″, 1.840, 1.85, 1.842, 1.840, 1.851, 1.2842, 1.840 avg. 1.84325 (==1.9685 less runout) ==3.18135mm
- Square 1.843″, 1.839, 1.843, 1.838 avg. 1.84075(==1.9685 less runout)==3.24485mm
- Mount piece right (nice) side up
- re-work G-code to cut deeper? Check Z 9.1948/9.0678 total diff 1.651/1.524 7.5438 circle diff 1.1938 6.35 square diff 1.2192 5.1308 --- CHECKED --- Z had wrong setting in Grbl --- FIXED
- Add orientation marks to code
- dust shoe tends to collapse --- add a right angle / elbow inset to focus the vacuum where it's needed and provide more structure and direction to the air --- DONE --- run vacuum on lowest setting --- HELPS --- monitor vacuum and turn off / on or increase speed temporarily to clear things
- Corner placer
- drag knife holder
- laser cutter
Original Grbl Settings
$0 = 174.98 $1 = 174.98 $2 = 377.89 $3 = 30 $4 = 500 $5 = 500 $6 = 0.10 $7 = 136 !?! $8 = 15.00 $9 = 0.05
Home/Limit switches. Touch plate.
Wireless --- use Raspberry Pi mounted to gantry to control the Carbide Motion Board --- use Bluetooth Wii Remote as pendant
Upgrade XY belts to 9mm --- test / comparison cuts w/ 6mm
Work up 3D printed design for centering vise angled table jig? Way to mount workpieces to front of machine at 45/90 degree angles to cut dovetails?
Work up design for 4th axis, repurposing spare motor for rotational axis --- control electronics?
Thanks. That was all from the wiki though.
This is long and rambling 'cause I haven't had a cup of tea or coffee yet and initially misread the query and I'm not in mood to delete all that I've written. It includes some speculation, 'cause I don't know any more than anyone else, or what has been publicly stated. Hopefully it will be helpful and informative. If not, ignore it.
Sending G-code is a simple process --- you can do it w/ a terminal program, I'd much rather the effort was all unified into a single stack of modular programs, but I guess modern computer architecture doesn't support that.
There was never any real discussion of making Universal G-Code Sender the default, it was a unilateral decision by Edward back when we were doing the SO2 docs. As I've noted elsewhere, I mislike Java, so am biased and try not to say more than that. It certainly works well for people who can run Java on their machines, and has some nice features.
I suspect we may get a new control / code sender program, possibly derived from the Carbide Motion program --- but nothing official has been said to indicate or support this, just that Edward has had better software on his to-do list for a while, and I can't think of anything else which could require so much time.
Tl;dr --- currently I'm most familiar w/ and use http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Grbl_Controller
Remember the old saw:
- good - cheap - fast
Pick any two.
That applies here. Most of the opensource options have clunky interface options and weird little difficulties w/ their output. While philosophically, I'd like to limit myself to opensource, I find myself drawing most things in Freehand, simply because nothing else is as efficient and as precise, let alone elegant. If my NeXT Cube was still working, I'd probably still be using Altsys Virtuoso.
Inkscape and MakerCAM and GRbl Controller work for me, albeit w/ the odd crash (running MC locally helps) and the need to trim files after the fact (yeah, it's supposed to happen automatically, I'd rather just do it up front).
Presumably MeshCAM, since it's done by a Carbide3D partner will be well-supported --- it is integrated into and included with their smaller, pre-assembled machine, the Nomad883.
Ingratitude perverts all the measures of religion and society, by making it dangerous to be charitable and good-natured. --- Thomas Tomkins, [i]Beauties of Writing[/i] 1777