Difference between revisions of "User:Willadams"
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* tape --- for wiring up the hot end
* heated bed?
* heated bed?
==Materials to try==
==Materials to try==
Revision as of 21:38, 27 February 2014
Got tired of seeing my name in red in the recent changes....
I'm a graphic designer who purchased a (used) ShapeOko w/ the intention of automating some woodworking projects and extending my capabilities, esp. hoping to build my own custom brass hardware (and tools) so as to not be limited to what's available for purchase commercially.
I'm an admin on the wiki here, so glad to help out w/ any edits or other issues.
Author of The Rules of ShapeOko.
¼″ Drive Shaft Upgrade
- ¼″ pulley
- ¼″ aluminum rod
- ¼″ flanged bearing (use a tapered reamer to enlarge the hole to 13/16″ so that the bearing fits directly, alternately make a bearing plate out of a dimensionally stable material such as hdPe))
- 5mm--¼″ coupler
- 4 7/32″ 1.5″ roll pins and 4 ½″ aluminum spacers (used as motor stand-offs) --- will eventually replace w/ 2″ roll pin
- 4 M3 screws 50mm long
- an assortment of washers
Since implemented double MakerSlide X-Axis, Acme Screw Z-axis and 1m Y upgrades.
- drill new holes to rotate X and Y motors 45 degrees --- DONE!
- drill new holes in X gantry plate to invert belt --- DONE!
- use 10 1″ spacers for carriage--gantry plate --- DONE! but they wouldn't fit over the nifty new bolts, so had to use pan head screws and only used 6 spacers and an assortment of washers
- enlarge motor shaft hole in Y motor plate to accommodate moving pulley to outside --- DONE! Will test and see if it needs a thrust bearing or something.
- use ¼″ music wire and 1 ¼″ steel bar for Y-axis belt anchors --- DONE --- tried single track shelf wall standard instead of music wire --- didn't like it, but spare length of ¼″ aluminum rod worked,
- use short lengths of single track shelf wall standards for X-axis belt anchors --- DONE --- but a hole needs to be enlarged --- DONE
- run wiring --- DONE!
- make a nice enclosure of Lego bricks --- DONE (but see below)
- dust collection --- pick up Dremel EZ Twist Nose Cap and use it to hold a fashioned dust shoe in place --- DONE!
- arrange and secure power cords, secure power strip --- DONE!
- Go tool shopping (DONE!):
- 1/16, 2.5mm and 4mm hex keys (36+67+81 @ True Value, but they're not ball end, so must be replaced)
- fine tip screwdriver ($4.79 @ True Value --- replaced w/ a Starrett 559B)
- 8mm open end wrench ($4.99 @ Sears)
- Make nice fitted tool insert for cigar box --- DESIGNED --- just need to puzzle out extruding and differencing the tools ---Puzzled out --- next CAM and milling --- DONE
- make a nicer fitted insert for the cigar box cut out of basswood and lined w/ flocking and felt --- DONE
Worked up a mount and dust shoe set-up for a Harbor Freight ¼″ trim router:
Need to mount an extruder and get it working.
- Greg's extruder reloaded from kbot3d
- 1.75mm hotend from hotends.com.
- NEMA 17 motor w/ a body 40mm or shorter (62 oz 1.7a model?)
- Kapton tape --- for wiring up the hot end
- heated bed?
and a new controller and stepper driver shield and temperature controller --- on hold.
Materials to try
- Wood Composite Filament Laywoo-D3
- Carbon Fiber Sheet
- buy thickest cutting board at Restaurant store --- different colors
Hardware to try
- spindle carriage plate (upgrade v1 machine to use this)
- longer BHCS (for v2 machine MakerSlide)
- 100 M5 washers
- check inventory of aluminum spacers --- order any which are needed
- buy 2″ 7/32″ roll pins
Remaining things to do:
- drill new holes for side vice, mount new T-nuts (or use threaded inserts)
- design nicer / larger / roomier / easier-to-install transparency dust shoe
- work out management for Dremel power cord and vacuum hose --- build handle arrangement using hanger fixtures and strapping, use pipe or closet rod for handle
- figure out how to invert belts on X-axis --- probably will do this by getting M5 hex bolts and grinding off a side so that they fit snugly against the side of the motor
- make a nicer enclosure of Lego bricks --- need to hide away the wires for the p.s. and fan inside the enclosure DONE --- TODO add transparent bit for power LED, add push through stick for reset button
- replace remaining nylon spacers w/ metal, use 2″ 7/32″ roll pins as stand-offs for Y-axis motor (replacing 1.5″ pins and ½″ aluminum spacers) use 1.5″ pins on spindle mount
- drill new holes in X gantry plate for second pair of bolts
- sound enclosure
- replace standard carriage plate w/ steel version
- replace Z-axis delrin blocks w/ aluminum
- replace zip ties w/ cable drag chain
- drill holes and fasten X-axis MakerSlide together or use Kbot3d's Makerslide Joining Clips
Diamond, Circle, Square
Results (w/ Dremel 4000 and short bit)
- Diamond 1.278, 1.273, 1.277, 1.270 avg. 1.2745 (==1.39194 less runout) ==2.98298mm
- Circle 1.841″, 1.840, 1.85, 1.842, 1.840, 1.851, 1.2842, 1.840 avg. 1.84325 (==1.9685 less runout) ==3.18135mm
- Square 1.843″, 1.839, 1.843, 1.838 avg. 1.84075(==1.9685 less runout)==3.24485mm
- Mount piece right (nice) side up
- re-work G-code to cut deeper? Check Z 9.1948/9.0678 total diff 1.651/1.524 7.5438 circle diff 1.1938 6.35 square diff 1.2192 5.1308 --- CHECKED --- Z had wrong setting in Grbl --- FIXED
- Add orientation marks to code
- dust shoe tends to collapse --- add a right angle / elbow inset to focus the vacuum where it's needed and provide more structure and direction to the air --- DONE --- run vacuum on lowest setting --- HELPS --- monitor vacuum and turn off / on or increase speed temporarily to clear things
Original Grbl Settings
$0 = 174.98 $1 = 174.98 $2 = 377.89 $3 = 30 $4 = 500 $5 = 500 $6 = 0.10 $7 = 136 !?! $8 = 15.00 $9 = 0.05